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#3 David Torres Bisetti

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I el sue o de caf Entrevista Interview D a v i d To r r e s B i s e t t i To s t a d u r i a B i s e t t i of almas dream gemelas offee Amor y conocimiento Los dos elementos que dan vida a este emprendimiento La cafeteria y la escuela de caf almas gemelas con un solo esp ritu Historia mitos y leyendas del caf La cafeteria y su rol social Emprendimiento errores y aciertos Pa s s i o n a n d k n o w l e d g e the two elements that give l i f e t o t h i s e n d e a v o r To s t a d u r i a B i s e t t i a n d t h e coffee school twin souls with one single spirit We s p o k e w i t h D a v i d T o r r e s B i s e t t i a b o u t h i s t o r y a b o u t myths and legends about c o f f e e We w e r e t a l k i n g about the cafeteria its social role and of course also its business his mistakes and his successes twin souls TH OTSE i n t ervi ew s Nov 2019 1

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caf y cacao coffee cacao La ubicaci n factor vital Ac David nos habla de errores y de mala suerte Le pregunto qu es lo m s importante para empezar un emprendimiento de una cafeter a El responde un manejo de costos muy bueno esto despu s de hablar de la bot nica del caf durante media hora pudo haber sido mucho m s Acto seguido le pregunto qu otro factor es importante locaci n locaci n locaci n David tambi n nos habla de algunos errores que cometi en su carrera de emprendedor de cafeter as uno de ellos poner un caf en el s tano de Larco Mar Aparentemente Larco Mar es uno de los lugares m s visitados por los turistas en Per despu s de Macchu Picchu Pero claro estar en el s tano era como estar en una dimensi n paralela y de aqu la recomendaci n anterior tener una buena locaci n Parece que pese a todos los artilugios publicitarios que intent la gente no quer a perder de vista al mar mientras toma su caf que es el encanto de Larco Mar obviamente As que tuvo que dejar ese proyecto Insignia acad mica e Innovaci n tecnol gica No dir a que fue un error fue simplemente mala suerte Otro error David Si el caf Uno emprendimiento a todas vistas fuera de serie poner un caf en el coraz n del rea de Ciencias e Ingenier a de la PUCP con un formato moderno con un equipamiento m s que apetecible por cualquier cafeter a de Lima en una universidad tan conservadora como la PUCP que es su alma Mater Este emprendimiento adem s ten a un objetivo tecnol gico como si ya no fuera poco reto lo anterior La idea era crear un punto de encuentro un espacio de inspiraci n que a la vez es un ejemplo de innovaci n con el fin de promover la innovaci n tecnol gica en temas de procesamiento de caf teniendo como testimonio vivo la cafeter a Uno De hecho hubieron cuatro tesis de ingenier a mecatr nica asociadas a este proyecto As transitaban estudiantes profesores y autoridades por este caf incluso representantes de la industria relacionada Su decoraci n moderna le daba un toque sofisticado al espacio definitivamente fuera de serie ninguna Universidad del Per cuenta con una cafeter a de esa categor a dentro de su campus y menos con objetivos acad micos Por dem s genial Y cu l fue el error Yo no dir a que fue un error dir a que fue solo mala suerte Interesante Una vez m s este caf se encontraba en un s tano pero parece que ese no fue el problema sino m s bien un tema coyuntural mantener el espacio requer a de un tratamiento diplom tico que no estaba dispuesto a hacer en ese momento Y el error entonces Pues fue dejar ese proyecto que pese a las cifras rojas pod a ser sostenido hasta lograr que funcione en cuanto a ganancias a mediano plazo Sin embargo este caf era una insignia de prestigio para su marca y un espacio de innovaci n que ya daba frutos Claro la humildad de David no le permite admitir el prestigio que representaba est cafeter a para la marca Bisetti Igual un logro a mi parecer 2 T H OT S E i n te r v ie w s N o v 2 01 9

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The location vital factor Here David talks about mistakes and bad luck I ask you what is the most important thing to start a business venture of a cafeteria He answers a very good cost management this after talking about the coffee botany for half an hour it could have been much more Then I ask him what other factor is important location location location David also tells us about some mistakes he made in his career as an entrepreneur of coffee shops one of them putting a coffee in the basement of Larco Mar Apparently Larco Mar is one of the most visited places by tourists in Peru after Macchu Picchu But of course being in the basement was like being in a parallel dimension and from here the previous recommendation having a good location It seems that despite all the advertising gadgets that people tried to avoid losing sight of the sea while drinking their coffee which is the charm of Larco Mar obviously So he had to leave that project I wouldn t say it was a mistake it was just bad luck Academic badge and technological innovation Another mistake David If the Uno coffee an all out of theordinary undertaking put a coffee in the heart of the Science and Engineering area of the PUCP with a modern format with more than desirable equipment from any coffee shop in Lima at a university as conservative as the PUCP that is your soul Mater This venture also had a technological goal as if it was not enough to challenge the previous The idea was to create a meeting point a space of inspiration that at the same time is an example of innovation in order to promote technological innovation in issues of coffee processing having as a living testimony the cafeteria Uno In fact there were four theses of mechatronic engineering associated with this project This is how students professors and authorities went through this caf including representatives of the related industry Its modern decoration gave a sophisticated touch to the space definitely out of series no University of Peru has a cafeteria of that category within its campus and less for academic purposes For the rest great And what was the error I would not say it was a mistake I would say it was just bad luck Interesting Once again this coffee was in a basement but it seems that this was not the problem but rather a circumstantial issue maintaining the space required a diplomatic treatment that was not ready to do at that time And the error then Well it was leaving that project which despite the red figures could be sustained until it works in terms of medium term profits However this coffee was a prestigious badge for its brand and an area of innovation that already paid off Of course the humility of David does not allow him to admit the prestige that represented this cafeteria for the Bisetti brand Equal an achievement in my opinion TH OTSE i n t ervi ew s Nov 2019 3

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David Torres Bisetti es uno de estos emprendedores que hace 11 a os empieza a proyectar su pasi n por el caf en un emprendimiento concreto caf Ar bica en Miraflores Lima y que despu s de varias experiencias se concretar a adem s en la Tostaduria Bisetti en Barranco cuya fundaci n viene adem s acompa ada de su alma gemela La Escuela del Caf No basta con intuici n y pr ctica El conocimiento es fundamental 4 T H OT S E i n te r v ie w s N o v 2 01 9

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Intuition and practice is not enough Knowledge is fundamental David Torres Bisetti is one of these entrepreneurs who 11 years ago began to project his passion for coffee in a specific undertaking Arabica coffee in Miraflores Lima and after several experiences it would also be realized in the Bisetti Tostaduria in Barranco whose foundation it also comes with its twinsoul The Coffee School TH OTSE i n t ervi ew s Nov 2019 5

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Pasi n o raz n Al parecer el discurso de David en cuanto a recomendaciones para nuevos emprendedores gira alrededor de temas t cnicos num ricos y de marketing incluso pero David pens en cifras cuando empez eso defini su primer emprendimiento Pues obviamente no lo que movi su emprendimiento era su amor por el caf aunque siempre hay que cuidar los n meros Ar bica Caf empez como un sue o con pasi n y con algo de suerte si es que la suerte existe Muebles tra dos de su casa decoraci n de su propia autor a y mano de obra piezas de cafeteras decorativas parte de su colecci n Gracias a sus conocimiento de mec nica l mismo puso en valor una cafetera usada que requer a reparaciones con piezas de cachina y claro una vez m s la suerte querr a que el tostara su propio caf lo cual le tra a mejores m rgenes sin saberlo Cosas adem s de arte y conocimiento Y todo es caf en una cafeter a Yo dir a que no que la experiencia es indispensable pero claro si el caf es malo no hay experiencia que valga Entonces c mo se construye la experiencia Bien eso tiene muchos factores Desde la decoraci n hasta la forma en que te atienden pasado por la historia que anima el esp ritu del lugar Y c mo es esto de la historia Pues es la historia que inspira todo lo dem s el tema En ingl s lo llaman storytelling Todos tenemos una historia y no debe ser poco interesante si termin en una cafeter a La gente pensar como lo har a si su cafeter a es nueva no tiene historia Bueno de eso se trata 6 T H OT S E i n te r v ie w s N o v 2 01 9 de transferir al negocio la historia del fundador su familia la de su lugar de origen etc Esto te da la sensaci n de estar en un lugar con esp ritu pese a ser nuevo Y esto define la cultura que todos los colaboradores del negocio deben seguir El Caf como espacio social y pol tico Una consideraci n que hay que tener en cuenta cuando uno pone un caf seg n David es apreciar que este es un espacio social Hist ricamente desde sus inicios los caf s representaron espacios para intercambio discusiones y tertulias El siglo XVI vio nacer los primeros caf s en Turqu a un siglo despu s de que el caf como bebida fuera empezado a prepararse y tomarse en frica y luego en medio Oriente Despu s de un largo viaje el primer caf aparece en Europa a principios del siglo XVIII Actualmente los caf s nos parecen cosa com n en el mundo donde los espacios virtuales y f sicos de socializaci n son muy sofisticados y han tomado diversas formas Pero tres o cinco siglos atr s eran una novedad como espacio de socializaci n antes de la aparici n de estos salones para tomar caf no exist a nada parecido m s a n consumiendo una bebida que m s all de aturdir como el alcohol pon a m s despierto y vivaz En medio Oriente fue prohibido temporalmente dada su naturaleza pol tica espacio de reuni n p blico Un peligro para los reg menes En Europa fueron espacios inmediatamente preferidos por intelectuales y artistas Espacio para desarrollar v nculos sociales compartir informaci n y crear network como se concibe hoy O sea un espacio pol tico No se puede pensar que uno est conversando en un caf y que esta conversaci n no sea compartida parcialmente en otras mesas contiguas As se pueden escuchar muchas conversaciones en un caf que son privadas y en parte p blicas as puede ser un lugar para lograr contactos y compartir intereses comunes con otras personas que frecuentan este espacio Desde conversaciones de negocios estudiantiles intelectuales artistas hablando de temas diversos Incluso entrevistas de trabajo y claro no puede faltar el trabajador solitario con su laptop En fin este p blico y sus conversaciones est definido por el lugar que rodea al caf Puede ser un rea empresarial tur stico estudiantil cultural etc Importante tomarlo en cuenta a la hora de pensar en el negocio Y todo esto que tiene que ver con el caf como emprendimiento hoy en d a Pues si se quiere poner un caf hay que tener en cuenta que su sala es un espacio de socializaci n y adecuarlo a la direcci n que queremos darle y a las caracter sticas de uso de nuestro p blico objetivo

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Passion or reason Apparently David s speech in terms of recommendations for new entrepreneurs revolves around technical numerical and even marketing issues but David thought of figures when he started that defined his first venture Well obviously not what moved his enterprise was his love for coffee although you always have to take care of the numbers Arabica Caf started as a dream with passion and with some luck if luck exists Furniture brought from your home decoration of your own authorship and labor pieces of decorative coffee makers part of your collection Thanks to his knowledge of mechanics he put in value a used coffee machine that required repairs with pieces of cachina and of course once again luck would want him to roast his own coffee which brought him better margins without knowing it Things besides art and knowledge And everything is coffee in a cafeteria I would say no that experience is indispensable but of course if coffee is bad there is no experience worth it So how is the experience built Well that has many factors From the decoration to the way they treat you through the history that animates the spirit of the place And how is this about the story It is the story that inspires everything else the theme In English they call it storytelling We all have a story and it should not be uninteresting if it ended up in a cafeteria People will think as they would if their cafeteria is new has no history Well that s what it is to transfer to the business the story of the founder his family his place of origin etc This gives you the feeling of being in a place with spirit despite being new And this defines the culture that all business partners must follow The Caf as a social and political space One consideration that must be taken into account when you put a coffee according to David is to appreciate that this is a social space Historically since its inception cafes represented spaces for exchange discussions and gatherings The 16th century saw the birth of the first coffees in Turkey a century after the coffee as a drink was started to be prepared and taken in Africa and then in the Middle East After a long trip the first coffee appears in Europe at the beginning of the XVIII century At present coffee seems to us something common in the world where the virtual and physical spaces of socialization are very sophisticated and have taken different forms But three or five centuries ago was a novelty as a space for socialization before the appearance of these rooms for coffee there was nothing like it even more consuming a drink that beyond stun as alcohol put more awake and vivacious In the Middle East it was temporarily banned given its political nature a space for public meetings A danger for the regimes In Europe they were spaces immediately preferred by intellectuals and artists Space to develop social links share information and create network as it is conceived today That is a political space One can not think that one is conversing in a caf and that this conversation is not partially shared in other adjacent tables So you can hear many conversations in a cafe that are private and partly public so it can be a place to get contacts and share common interests with other people who frequent this space From business conversations students intellectuals artists talking about different topics Even job interviews and of course you can not miss the lonely worker with his laptop In short this audience and their conversations are defined by the place that surrounds the caf It can be a business tourist student cultural area etc Important to take it into account when thinking about the business And all this has to do with coffee as entrepreneurship nowadays Well if you want to put a coffee you have to take into account that your room is a space for socialization and adapt it to the direction we want to give it and the characteristics of use of our target audience TH OTSE i n t ervi ew s Nov 2019 7

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Cafeter as de tercera ola David tambi n nos habla de lo que viene para las cafeter as la tercera ola Y esto qu significa Pues son aquellas cafeter as que incluyen en su cadena de valor el tostado de las cual al parecer s lo en Lima ya hay m s de 100 cafeter as que est n siguiendo este modelo Es decir un mayor control sobre todo el proceso La escuela del caf de Bisetti es justamente una promotora de este modelo y es por ello que se pone mucho esmero en comunicar este conocimiento parte ciencia y parte arte que es el del tostado del caf David nos dice muy entusiasmado que lejos de ser una preocupaci n esto es un logro para la escuela que directa e indirectamente promueve esta pr ctica Si bien esta tercera ola podr a disminuir la compra de caf tostado incluso de su propia marca esto no es de temer todo lo contrario porque la escuela apunta a la evoluci n del mercado del caf en el Per y eso es bueno para todos Caf producto informaci n y mitos La informaci n es vital para dar mayor valor a un producto es m s en algunos casos puede definir en gran parte el producto Y en el caso del caf no es la excepci n Hablar del origen del tostado de su preparaci n de su historia es muy importante para dar al consumidor una experiencia completa No tan solo eso saber de sus caracter sticas sociales como las condici n de vida de los productores su historia si son peque as o grandes productores si son tratados con comercio justo si es ecol gico u 8 T H OT S E i n te r v ie w s N o v 2 01 9 org nico Todo esto puede cambiar mucho la percepci n del consumidor hac a un caf y hacia la cafeter a que lo sirve Incluso puede hacer que el caf se aprecie mejor Pero hasta qu punto esta informaci n cruza el l mite del mito David nos explica que el mito tiene dos aproximaciones sem nticas puede ser una historia o puede ser una mentira Para m la l nea que divide la informaci n objetiva de la que no lo es es muy delgada e incluso borrosa todo es historia y todos somos personajes Vayamos a ejemplos concretos caf kopi luwak caf ex tico de Indonesia que aparentemente adquiere su especial caracter stica al ser ingerido por un animal llamado civeta y luego defecado Esto hace de este caf uno de los m s caros del mundo Aqu en Per el caf Tunki David nos comenta que a este caf se le atribuyen caracter stica de calidad que no son demostrables e incluso existen comerciantes inescrupulosos que que venden caf Tunki que no lo es y as terminan saboreando y apreciando un caf por informaci n falsa En la pr ctica son muy pocas las personas que realmente pueden distinguir de manera tan refinada las diferencias que convierten a un caf en excepcional Consecuencia de ello la informaci n puede hacer que las personas inclinen su gusto Entonces qu es informaci n v lida y que es un mito Los sabores si son posible de distinguir por una base biol gica tal como nos explica David pero para mi la parte emocional define una parte importante del sabor puede hacer que se sienta mejor e incluso que caiga mejor al sistema digestivo Sobre todo cuando los sabores son muy sofisticados y nuestro paladar no est cultivado Aqu tambi n entra la Escuela del Caf pues para cultivar los paladares hace falta escuela As los talleres de cata pueden ser muy tiles Nos cuenta David que algunas personas le comentan despu s de un taller nos jodiste el paladar ya no vamos a poder tomar cualquier caf a partir de ahora En solo una sesi n no toma mas David nos dice que no se trata de desarticular todos los mitos de la industria pero si de poner criterios claros Somos una construcci n nuestra cultura lo es Nosotros lo somos una construcci n de historias informaci n leyendas y mitos C digos que son aceptados otros que son valorados y deseables La cultura es viva va variando en el tiempo Como dijese el psic logo David Feldman a la pregunta qu es el ser humano un manojo de recuerdos Si es as el caf tambi n lo es Un mito puede ser una historia C u l t i v a r o una mentira

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Third wave cafes David also talks about what s coming for the coffee shops the third wave And this means Well those are coffee shops that include roasting in their value chain of which apparently only in Lima there are already more than 100 coffee shops that are following this model That is greater control over the entire process The Bisetti coffee school is just a promoter of this model and that is why we put a lot of effort into communicating this knowledge part science and part art that is the coffee roasting David tells us very excited that far from being a concern this is an achievement for the school that directly and indirectly promotes this practice Although this third wave could reduce the purchase of roasted coffee even from its own brand this is not to be feared quite the opposite because the school points to the evolution of the coffee market in Peru and that is good for everyone Coffee product information and myths The information is vital to give greater value to a product indeed in some cases it can largely define the product And in the case of coffee is not the exception Talking about the origin the toasting its preparation its history is very important to give the consumer a complete experience Not only that knowing their social characteristics such as the condition of the producers lives their history whether they are small or large producers whether they are treated with fair trade whether it is organic or ecological All this can change a A myth can be a history or a lie lot the perception of the consumer to a coffee and to the cafeteria that serves it It can even make the coffee appreciate better But to what extent this information crosses the limit of the myth David explains that the myth has two semantic approaches it can be a story or it can be a lie For me the line that divides the objective information from the one that is not is very thin and even blurred everything is history and we are all characters Let s go to concrete examples coffee kopi luwak exotic coffee from Indonesia that apparently acquires its special characteristic when it is ingested by an animal called civet and then defecated This makes this coffee one of the most expensive in the world Here in Peru the Tunki coffee David tells us that this coffee is attributed quality characteristics that are not demonstrable and there are even unscrupulous merchants that sell Tunki coffee that is not and so end up tasting and appreciating a coffee for false information In practice there are very few people who can really distinguish in such a refined way the differences that make coffee exceptional Consequence of this information can make people inclined their taste So what is valid information and what is a myth The flavors if they can be distinguished by a biological basis as David explains but for me the emotional part defines an important part of the flavor it can make you feel better and even better to fall to the digestive system Especially when the flavors are very sophisticated and our palate is not cultivated Here also enters the School of Coffee because to cultivate the palates we need school So the tasting workshops can be very useful David tells us that some people tell him after a workshop you fucked our palate we will not be able to drink any coffee from now In just one session it does not take more David tells us that it is not a question of dismantling all the myths of the industry but of putting clear criteria We are a construction our culture is We are a construction of stories information legends and myths Codes that are accepted others that are valued and desirable Culture is alive it varies in time As the psychologist David Feldman said to the question what is the human being a bunch TH OTSE i n t ervi ew s Nov 2019 9

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of memories If so coffee is too Cultivate the market el mercado Si somos un producto cultural entonces es importante construir el mercado del caf y su cultura a trav s de la informaci n capacitaci n y por qu no con mitos y leyendas pero responsablemente Tener un mercado de consumo m s entendido enriquece el mercado obliga a que la oferta sea mejor nos empuja a una sana competencia hace que se construye una econom a m s robusta creamos m s valor se fortalece la cadena productiva No tienen porque haber agricultores cafetaleros empobrecidos solo por descuido Flojera descuido o lo que se le parezca es el origen de un mercado tambi n flojo Hemos de construir este mercado Cultivarlo a conciencia y no s lo por casualidad Dejemos la especulaci n a un lado y creemos valor real y sostenido Pensar el Caf no basta con amarloEs bueno que haya gente pensando el caf en el Per El conocimiento es fundamental 10 T H OT S E i n te r v ie w s N o v 2 01 9 If we are a cultural product then it is important to build the coffee market and its culture through information training and why not with myths and legends but responsibly Having a more knowledgeable consumer market enriches the market forces the supply to be better pushes us to healthy competition makes a more robust economy is built we create more value the productive chain is strengthened They do not have to have coffee farmers impoverished just by carelessness Laziness carelessness or whatever it may seem is the origin of a market that is also weak We have to build this market Cultivate it conscientiously and not just by chance Let the speculation aside and we believe real and sustained value Thinking about coffee it is not enough to love it It s good that there are people thinking about coffee in Peru Knowledge is fundamental